2009-06-28 - 29 From Lerwick to Fair Isle

After two days of festivities in Lerwick we felt it was time to start exploring. Thanks to the exceptionally good weather we decided to set our course to Fair Isle, an island south of Shetland half way to the Orkney islands. Fair Isle is an isolated island with a harbor not suitable for all kinds of winds and weathers and can at times be completely cut of from the main land due to weather conditions making the island and harbor inaccessible.
Fair Isle is among other things famous for birds of various kinds, stationary as well as migrating. For this reason there is a famous bird observatory which also works as a hostel. This year however it was closed as they were currently building a new but they were still lacking funds so we will have to sea what the future will bring.
Fair Isle has a population of about 70 people living in traditional crofts on the fertile south side of the island and sheep, cattle and ponies are grazing on the rocky moorland. In the past the islanders were also trading with passing ships. In particular warm knitwear suitable for the arctic trade routes was popular items produced on the island and still is today.
Human settlements dating back 5000 years have been excavated and there are traces of oval shaped stone houses maybe as old as 3000 years. Today the Fair Isle people are self sufficient and far away from any mainland power grid they are producing their own electricity. Previously by a diesel driven generator but today 80% of the power is produced by wind turbines. Fair Isle is definitely worth a visit and the harbor is sheltered for normal summer winds but exposed to the north. However the weather can shift with little notice so be well prepared. At times not even the ferry boat the Good Shepard IV can maintain it’s 3 times a week itinerary from Shetland and people can be stranded on one either side of the route.
Our journey from Lerwick to Fairs Isle was particularly exiting as we sighted a pod of Killer Wales (also called or Orcas) for the first time. The pod came very close and one even came to visit us with a dive under the boat. Pleas se the pictures below. Click on the picture to enlarge.

Killer Whales or Orcas, sighted south of the island Mousa on our way to Fairs Isle.

A mother with a calf.

A male Orca with its distinctive fin.

"Look, see what I can do!"

Just having fun or waving good bye.

I hope we see you soon again.

Sumburgh head, the south tip of Shetland.

Fair Isle is spoted in the south after a short odd rain shower. The distinctive Sheep rock is seen on the far left, showing the way to the harbour.

The North Haven, the only useful harbor on Fair Isle.

An old one cylinder engine spoted on the beach. I wonder how many hours it would take to get it running again.

The Sheep Rock (or Sheep Craig)

Time to gather the sheep.

One of the two churches on the island. The is one Scottish (state) church and one Methodist church. Service in each churche is held on alternating Sundays.

Kajsa has found an old piece of farming machinery.

The light house on the south side. It was severly damaged by German bombs during the 2nd world war and two lighthouse keepers wifes were killed but the lighouse was restored and back in service again, important as it was.

Fair Isle golf course, a tricky one.

Cliffs on the SW side.

And Puffins of course.

A Fulmar, relative to the Albatross.

"Do you think I can jump from here?"

Time for lunch and rest. An ocean view spot hard to beat.

The sheep are gathered and it's time for the yerly shearing of the sheeps wool. The entire villige is working together.

Traditional manual work.

The sun was blazing down from a clear sky so sun lotion was in high demand.

No fuzz...here we go...

An Arctic Skua (Skootie Allan) is attacking Kajsa.

The Skootie Allans are very agressive in potecting their territory.

After a days hard working, walking all over the island a refreshing swim in 11,7 degrees C sea water puts your head straight again.

2009-06-27 in Lerwick

The high pressure over the Norwegian Sea is more or less stationary and we wake up to a warm and sunny morning. After showers at the Lerwick Boating Club we can enjoy a breakfast in the cockpit in shorts and t-shirts. As the day goes on the heat builds up and the Shetlanders say they haven’t experienced such weather for ages. I take my t-shirt off and Kajsa is laying on the foredeck in bikini only working on her tan. Later we take a walk in town and explore the Shetland museum and the fort. The town is full of activities the weekend through and together with fantastic weather it creates a carnival like atmosphere. Thousands of people in all ages are enjoying themselves on the pier with food, live music and other activities all day. In the evening Kajsa takes off join the crowd but we are instead taking refuge in the relative quietness of the Lerwick Boating Club which is hosting a barbecue and a live band is playing in the club house. The sunset view from the balcony of the club house is not bad. Kajsa later joins us at the club and we return to the boat just before midnight.

Overviewing Lerwick from the fort

Variuos activities in town (Damorkestern ?) African drumming and dancing

Party at the Lerwick Boating Club

Tommy from Stockholm sailing a OE 38 to the Classic Malt Cruise

Sunset over Lerwick harborand Victoria Pier

2009-06-24 - 26 Korshavn to Lerwick

We have arrived in Shetland / Lerwick Friday around noon.
When we woke up on Wednesday morning the wind had changed to east, all according to yesterdays weather forecast, and up with the birds we rounded Lindesnes and made a short stop in Korshavn to fill up the diesel we had consumed so far, i.e. about 60 liters. We then continued straight west to clear the corner of Norway and we set of for Lerwick, the main town on Shetland. Unfortunately the wind died on us again just before 1400 hours and we had to motor through the night. Later in the morning on Thursday up a light easterly breeze starts to build and on an a almost flat sea we motor-sail in 6 knots + with only 1500 rpm on the engine. At 1530 hours the breeze is more powerful and we can finally set the genacker and are soon making around 6 knots under sail only. Wonderful! We in continued in the same fashion through the next night and all the way to Lerwick which we arrive at 1300 hours on Friday. During the hole trip we had the most fantastic weather with clear blue skies and sunshine so we can't complain. Still today, Saturday, the sun is just blazing down and we are enjoying every minute in shorts and t-shirts only. We are however together with around 40 other yachts that are participating in the annual Bergen - Shetland race so we are not exactly alone in the marina. The town is full of activities as the "taste of Shetland" event is held at the same time right here on the Victoria pier.

Passing Lindesnes early in the morning

Kajsa is working hard on her tan...

...in various forms and shapes.

Passing some of the offshore installations in Beryl oil field.

The first sight of Shetland. The islands of Bressay and Noss outside Lerwick.

We ended up in the middle of the Bergen - Shetland race.

Live music at the"Taste of Shetland" event on the Victoria Pier.

2009-06-21 -23 Gothenburg to Lindesnes

Finally we are on our way to a new adventure. The boat and crew is ready. After a day of final preparations we picked up Kajsa at her work at Hard Rock Café in Gothenburg and around 2200 hours we motored out into a sunset. There is next to no wind, all according to the latest forecast, so we were mentally prepared for a night steaming westward under engine. Lasse took the first watch as darkness fell. Mona went to bed early but Kajsa stayed up a bit longer trying to wind down from a hectic day at work. AC/DC was playing in town so HRC had been very busy. In the small hours a very quiet night was spiced up by a military patrol boat that came steaming after us from a long distance. Only about 20 – 30 meters behind us they finally decided we were not terrorists or a threat to world peace or something and made a sharp turn to starboard and continued north. ???

At 0400 hours it was time for Mona to start her watch and I went to bed in the forepeak which is relatively silent when under power in calm seas. The sun rises in the east under a clear sky and there is still no wind to write home about so we continue under power.

Around 1000 hours well west of Skagen we move in to patches of low fog. Blue sky above us but very poor visibility at sea level. This is an area with a lot of heavy traffic so in moments like this the radar is a blessing. The fog is short lived and around 1100 hours a wind from south starts to pick up. Soon we can shut the engine down after more than 12 hours continues running and we are making around 5 knots under sail on a very calm sea. Wonderful! Our course is set at a point just south of Lindesnes and we are still hoping that we will make it round the south cape of Norway without stopping.

But as the wind builds up it’s veering more and more west and we are finally on a course just east of Kristiansand. Around 2000 hours with two reefs in the main and two in the genoa we are beating our way in between the islands of Sörlandet. Plan B is to find a nice anchorage for the night and continue westward under the shelter of the cost in the morning. We finally drop the anchor in Björvigen east of Kristiansand. After a late but heart warming soup we hit the bunks and sleept like babies.

Tuesday starts at 0700 hours with coffee and checking the weather forecasts. The day offers sunshine but rather strong W – SW winds so we continue under power between the sheltering islands in the archipelago and are making our way past Kristiansand and Mandal and Ny Hellsund (picture below, note the Lama on the hill top) We decide the conditions are unnecessary rough to pass Lindesnes and as the wind is still on the west there is no point. Especially as the forecast for the coming days is offering winds from N – NE. Perfect for a take off to the Shetlands.

We decide to call in early in Lillehavn, almost in walking distance and east of Lindesnes. A very quiet little harbour but with no possibility to fill diesel which was a disapointement. Our chart says so but it’s to old. Now the fish landing place and filling station has made place for condominiums and the once busy harbour feels like a ghost town. We are the only yacht and we see hardly any people, only old Edith who says hello wile knitting in a chair outside here house. Keeping an eye on what’s going on. We take a short walk to stretch our legs. Kajsa and I are doing some last minute trimming of the rig and then dinner. We are off for an early start tomorrow so now it’s time to say good night.